Around Milan: Exploring the Cenisio/Monumentale area
22 June 2023 - Insights

Around Milan: Exploring the Cenisio/Monumentale area

After years of remaining under the radar despite its proximity to the city center, Cenisio/Monumentale is getting a new lease on life, driven by the regeneration of the former Farini railyard.

Located in the northwest quadrant, Cenisio/Monumentale is a well-serviced residential area boasting an enviable strategic position. It borders the vibrant Paolo Sarpi Chinatown and is just a stone’s throw from Isola, one of Milan’s most charming neighborhoods.

The urban landscape here is a fascinating mix of tree-lined avenues, green spaces, historic buildings, former industrial sites, and modern developments. Also known as "La Simonetta" (a nod to a landmark building in the area), the neighborhood sits next to the former Farini railyard, which is the subject of an ambitious redevelopment project which will bring a 25-hectare park, the new Brera Academy campus, and a major social housing initiative.

This project is bringing new momentum to the district, particularly in the area north of Cenisio, which has already earned itself a new acronym: NoCe (North of Cenisio).

History and fun facts

Historically, the Cenisio/Monumentale area was part of the Borgo degli Ortolani, a rural settlement outside the city walls that supplied Milan’s markets and acted as an access point for travelers arriving from Varese.

The 19th century brought profound changes. The opening of the Monumental Cemetery in 1866 marked the beginning of the area's gradual integration into the city, forever altering its appearance and identity. This transformation was further cemented in 1884 with the adoption of the Beruto Plan, the city’s first true urban master plan.

By that time, the area had become a bustling manufacturing hub, as evidenced by the historic workers' tenements. Today it’s a predominantly residential neighborhood, but it keeps its strong historical character.

What to see in the Cenisio/Monumentale area

The neighborhood's most iconic landmark is undoubtedly the Monumental Cemetery, a true open-air museum housing the graves of Milan’s most illustrious figures, from Alessandro Manzoni to Dario Fo and Alda Merini.

Nearby, the ADI Design Museum displays the historic collection of the Compasso d’Oro, the prestigious industrial design award established by Gio Ponti in 1954.

Heading north, Via Stilicone offers two highlights: Villa Simonetta, a 15th-century Renaissance gem now home to the Civic Music School, and Galleria Lia Rumma, a leading contemporary art gallery exhibiting names like Marina Abramović, William Kentridge, and Vanessa Beecroft.

Another must-visit for art lovers is the Fabbrica del Vapore on Via Procaccini, a former industrial site hosting events as well as design and photography exhibitions.

Finally, wandering the streets reveals unexpected treasures like the 16th-century Santo Spirito alla Ghisolfa church, the red-and-white tent of the Little Circus School, and the Wall of Kindness on Via Luigi Nono—a community initiative where people can donate or pick up clothing and other essentials.

Take note of these addresses

Cenisio/Monumentale boasts both historic establishments and trendy new venues, creating a dynamic mix that defines the neighborhood's unique character.

Must-visit places include LOM, a cocktail bar and vegetarian kitchen housed inside an ancient farmhouse; Trattoria La Rava e La Fava, known for its charming retro vibe; and Osteria Caneva, serving delicious Sardinian specialties.

For a summer evening aperitivo, Ceresio7 is a must. Located on the rooftop of the former Enel building, it is the perfect place to sip cocktails poolside while gazing at the city skyline. And for those who prefer the cozy warmth of a pub, Mulligans is the go-to spot for an authentic Irish pint.

Finally, the area offers a delightful array of specialty shops, from the fresh artisanal cheeses at Caseificio Fiordilatte to the authentic Moroccan pastries at La Medina.

Transportation

The Cenisio/Monumentale area is served by the M5 metro line (Cenisio and Monumentale stations), providing easy access to all the city's key landmarks. Additionally, the proximity to Milano Porta Garibaldi train station makes traveling out of town very convenient.

Connections to the rest of the city are also ensured by surface transport, including Tram 14, which runs directly to Piazza Duomo.

The real estate market in Milan's Cenisio/Monumentale area

Cenisio/Monumentale enjoys a lively real estate market, thanks to a strategic location that offers a genuine neighborhood feel while remaining close to some of the city's most dynamic districts, such as Isola, CityLife, and Sempione.

However, the primary market driver is the future of Scalo Farini: its regeneration is set to boost property values, increasing the area's appeal for both homebuyers and investors.